Our hike starts with a decision: on the left, a trail leads up to Zwirgi without a direct view of the Reichenbach Falls; on the right, the nostalgic cog railway runs to the waterfalls. From here, the mighty 300-metre-high cascade can be admired in close-up. The highest of the seven waterfalls is the upper Reichenbach Fall, measuring 120 metres. It achieved worldwide fame thanks to Conan Doyle’s short story of 1893, The Final Problem, in which Sherlock Holmes fought fiercely with his archenemy, Professor Moriarty. The scuffle ended with a plunge into the waterfall.

On the first high plain, the Gschwantenmad, it becomes clear why so many 18th century artists and poets fell under the spell of the Reichenbach Valley: the Rosenlaui Glacier looks majestic with its white crown, while the flanks of the Wellhorn and Wetterhorn seem almost threatening. They contrast with the charming, verdant meadows through which the stream meanders. The unspoilt valley played a key role in the development of Alpine tourism, as illustrated by the traditional Rosenlaui Hotel at the entrance to the mystical Rosenlaui Gorge. Its history began with the discovery of a sulphurous mineral spring in the 18th century.

From Schwarzwaldalp, the wild mountain valley is dominated on the left by the rugged face of the Wellhorn with its glacial offshoots and small waterfalls. The main feature on the right is the charming flora, characterised by meadows, flowers and forests beneath the Schwarzhorn. Reaching the top of the pass at 1,962 m above sea level, we catch our first glimpse of the Eiger’s north face and the 4,000-metre peaks of the Bernese Oberland. The trail continues – always in sight of the north face 1,800 metres high – down to Grindelwald and back to civilisation.