Johann Wolfgang von Goethe once wrote about this region: "Of all the regions I know, this is the loveliest and most interesting." Would he still have the same view now, given the bumper-to-bumper traffic that thunders over the Gotthard every day? Alfred Escher, the politician, captain of industry and rail entrepreneur, initially favoured an Alpine transit route at the Lukmanier Pass, but then he changed his mind and backed the Gotthard project. The railway line through the Gotthard Tunnel was finally opened in 1882. Many lives were claimed by illness or accidents during the work on – and inside – the mountain. The Gotthard Axis, as it is known, now combines a railway line and a motorway.

A tower dating from the 13th century stands in Hospental, an old village on the Gotthard road. These are the remains of the seat of the "Nobles of Hospental". Alpine passes can be spotted in all directions, and you have to work out which is the Gotthard, Oberalp or Furka. On reaching the first bend on the Gotthard Pass, you'll have a fabulous view of Urseren Valley and the majestic mountain world. With a little luck, you'll see a marmot. After climbing almost 500 meters, you finally reach the border between Uri and Ticino cantons at the Gotthard-Reuss river. The cantonal border is a little special here because it marks the start of the old Gotthard Pass. Nowadays, the "Tremola" is more or less an icon among mountain passes. "Tremare" means "tremble", and you'll certainly feel yourself trembling as you ride over countless rough cobblestones. The legendary Paris-Roubaix cycle race seems like child's play by comparison, and all amateur cyclists with any ambition should "do" the Tremola at least once in their lives.

There are various reasons for cycling over the old Gotthard route. For example, because of the aforementioned cobblestones. Where else can you still see anything like them? If you're lucky, you'll also see the legendary Gotthard Stagecoach on the pass: it can be hired, together with its team of horses. The coach trip from Andermatt over the Gotthard to Airolo is like a journey into the past. At the Gotthard Pass (2,106 m.a.s.l.), you can visit the "Museo Sasso San Gottardo" to discover its history. The building that houses the museum dates from 1834 (open daily, 9 am-6 pm). The Tremola is also open on the southern side, unless the pass is closed due to winter conditions. There are some jolts and bumps on the descent, but life is wonderful as you ride along behind the stagecoach in the sunshine, with the wind whistling and the birds chirruping! Now your journey continues down to Airolo in the "Alto Ticino".