Limitless freedom reigns above the clouds, as the saying goes. Early in the morning, Furka and Grimsel seem to be peacefully lying in each other’s arms. The birds are serenading while the legs are still feeling heavy during the first pedal strokes. Motorcyclists also seem to feel limitless freedom when thundering across Alpine passes on sunny weekends. Better not to choose a holiday then… Crossing over the Grimsel Pass was celebrated already in Roman times. From the south, rice, wine and Murano glass were hauled to the north. Cheese, leather, hardware, young horses and cattle travelled the other way. Today, the summit on the border between the cantons of Valais and Berne is commonly reached by motorized vehicle and only occasionally on foot or by bicycle. You may be tired but not dead when you reach the pristine Totensee (“Lake of the Dead“) a bit further on. It didn’t receive its name because the water was stagnant, but rather because of the soldiers of Duke Berchtold of Zähringen who were allegedly driven into the lake by the people of Valais some 800 years ago.

Whizzing down from the summit towards Grimsel Lake, you will pass the legendary “Grimsel Hospiz”, one of the most comfortable mountain hotels in the Alpine region. Or you may marvel at the complex hydroelectric systems of Kraftwerke Oberhasli AG. Since the company’s inception in 1925, no fewer than nine power stations have been built in several stages. More fun and excitement await you at Handegg, which still sits at 1,400 metres above sea level. Those who wish to soar even higher can ride on the legendary Gelmerbahn up to Gelmersee lake. With a gradient of up to 106%, it is Europe’s steepest open funicular railway.

The cycling route, which is not quite as steep, continues past the Schwarzbrunnenbrücke (black fountain’s bridge) – built with blocks of granite in 1892/1893 – to Guttannen (Crystal Museum) and onwards to Innertkirchen. At the Haslital traffic junction, trails and roads lead up to the Susten and Brünig Passes, across Grosse Scheidegg to Grindelwald and, of course, also to Rome… After a short ascent, you reach the Aare Gorge. It is fascinating to see how the river over thousands of years cut a 1,400-metre-long and up to 200-metre-deep gorge through the Kirchet rock formation (accessible April to October). The thrilling stage finally ends at Meiringen. However, the Aare River – sometimes gentle, sometimes raging – continues its course to Aaregg and into turquoise Lake Brienz.