Thanks to its protected location and the legendary Alpine föhn wind, Chur has one of the highest average temperatures of all Swiss cities. Chur's new town – with high-rises and old industrial plants – contrasts sharply with the old town, which has been inhabited for over 5,000 years. The museums are also worth visiting: Graubünden Natural History Museum, Rhaetian Museum, Vinicultural Museum and Graubünden Fine Arts Museum with canvases by Giovanni Segantini, the painter of the Alps, and by the Expressionist Ernst Ludwig Kirchner.

After leaving the city, you soon reach a pretty cycle path through the "Tuma Lunga". The toma hills are remarkable accumulations of earth in the Domat/Ems region. These hills, 12 to 70 meters high, were probably created by the energy released during the Flims landslide about 9,500 years ago. Between Domat/Ems and Rothenbrunnen, cyclists follow the "Polish Route". This section was built by Poles interned in Switzerland after they arrived here in 1940. They lived in barrack camps during World War II, until December 1945. The Polish Route affords some breathtaking views of the Hinterrhein below. The Domleschg castles are also amazing: on the eastern side of the valley, the political importance of traffic across the Julier, San Bernardino and Splügen Alpine passes led to the building of more castles here than in almost any other Swiss region. If you drink from the village fountain in Rothenbrunnen, you will immediately notice the strong taste of iodine. It was not by chance that the Giuvaulta (Rhaeto-Romance for Rothenbrunnen) home for children with breathing problems and tuberculosis opened here in 1935. Below Paspels, near a field of edible cannabis, butterflies flit around your ears. Magnificent creatures that are so difficult to photograph in flight …

Wild camping near Rodels is also difficult because of "Camping prohibited" signs – a reminder that you are in a very beautiful district. The climate here on the Hinterrhein is mild and good for crops: asparagus, beets and maize simply burst out of the fields. The two cycle tracks of Graubünden Route no. 6 split off at the welcoming Thusis forest swimming pool. One spur continues towards Viamala Gorge and Splügen, and the other heads for the Albula Pass and Bergün.