Zernez is the place where Upper and Lower Engadine meet. The village gained its uniform appearance after a major fire in 1872. Zernez is the base for excursions in the Swiss National Park. The Park's entire administration has been housed in Planta-Wildenberg Castle since 2007. The adjacent monolithic concrete cube is the National Park Centre, where you can learn all about conduct in the park, guided tours, hiking trails and the weather. The constantly tapering Lower Engadine is best explored and experienced on foot, by cycle or in a canoe. Majestic 3,000-meter peaks rise up on both sides. There are pretty villages such as Susch and Lavin, with handsome houses. Steep hairpins lead up to the sunny terraced village of Guarda. Guarda and neighbouring Ardez are listed sites. Locals eye the many tourists with price and forbearance – perhaps hoping that the beautifully painted houses won't be damaged by so much photography?

The "Witches' Stones" near Ardez have remained almost undamaged for centuries. These calcareous schist slabs, located directly on the cycle route, are estimated to date from around 2000 B.C. Well over 100 cup-like depressions, linked by grooves in isolated cases, were worked into the stones many years ago. It is unclear whether they were created for ritual or utilitarian purposes. The road, which now resembles a mountain pass, descends rapidly to Scuol. At the station, bikers wait for the Rhaetian Railway to take them back to Zernez. A huge cycle compartment ensures stress-free transportation of your bike.

The mineral spa at Scuol is equally stress-free. An apt motto: "Bathe in pure mineral water". There are over 20 mineral springs around Scuol. As a leisurely cyclist, you will be overtaken by more athletic riders between Scuol and Martina. This is a wonderful stretch for cycling, but it is unsuitable for racing bikes. The road for cars is so far above the Inn that almost no noise can be heard. Pretty little villages are nestled even higher, almost in the clouds. The last place before the border is Martina – and the world stops here. At least, that's how it looks at first glimpse, until you see the customs post and the Austrian and EU signs for Nauders and the Tirol (for those who want to remain staunchly loyal to the Inn Valley Cycle Path).