Don’t let the flat approach to this first stage of the Alpenpanorama Route fool you, because between St. Margrethen and Appenzell you will climb more than 1100 m in altitude. A quick look at the Rhine and you’re off, up into the vineyards. The view from “Monsteiner Rebweg” across the St. Gallen Rhine Valley and the Alpine mountain range is awesome and one you will see a few more times on this bike tour. The name of many of the hotels, gas stations, restaurants and pubs you are passing has something to do with Alpstein or Säntis. From the peak of Mt. Säntis you can see all five of Switzerland’s neighbouring countries. The view from the saddle is a bit more limited, but in Heiden, directly on the bike route, you will find the simple but interesting Henri-Dunant Museum. Dunant (1828-1910), initiator and founder of the Red Cross, was born in Geneva and spent the last twenty years of his life in Heiden.

The route continues up and down along major roads without much traffic, which gives you the opportunity to watch the mountain farmers bringing in the hay. You will cross the Goldach River just before reaching Trogen. On its way to Lake Constance, the small, but turbulent river hides in deep ravines and forests. The gigantic trees of Trogen, on the other hand, have no reason to hide. “Wine merchant and local councillor Johann Jakob Sturzenegger had the trees planted to recognize historical world events” is what the information panel says. In the second half of the 19th century some villages in the Appenzell region planted more of these Sequoias. Thinking of Trogen will undoubtedly bring the Pestalozzi Children’s Village to mind. The international children’s fund was established in 1946. It is a place of peace building, a place where children learn to deal with cultural and social differences.

In rolling Appenzell you feel free as a bird. After the initial bewilderment, you soon learn to understand the infatuation with Säntis and Alpstein. Inevitably, the down-to-earth landscape will make you feel safe and as if you belong. The home stretch passes the Brauquöll Appenzell brewery, crosses the Sitter River and finally ends in the lovely town of Appenzell with its colourful, elaborately decorated houses.