As usual on beautiful lakes, signs saying "proprietà privata" or "privato" abound on Lake Lugano. Handsome villas line the shore. Most of the public bathing facilities are near bus stops, and there's often just a little space left free. But you can enjoy clear views of the water from Lugano's local peaks: San Salvatore or Monte Brè. Both of them are a "mere" 900 m.a.s.l., but they afford superb views of the Ticino mountains – like sugar loaves – and the scenery around the lake.

Many little boat harbours can be glimpsed as you ride along the shore. Everything is very spick and span. In places like Morcote, the mountains often soar steeply into the sky. But before you ride into this little town, you reach the "Magic Garden" of Parco Scherrer. In 1930, wealthy textile trader Arthur Scherrer bought a plot of land with a 14th-century house which he relocated here from Lugano. With much dedication, he created a fairy-tale world of exotic trees, pavilions, sculptures and much more. Morcote is also a real gem, with its winding lanes, pergolas and a 13th-century pilgrimage church (Santa Maria del Sasso). A stroll is recommended.

Equally quaint – cute, if you like – is the Swiss Miniature Park in Melide, with reproductions of Swiss buildings, monuments and vehicles on a scale of 1:25. The village square at Bissone is named "Piazza Francesco Borromini". This famous architect (1599-1667) was born here, and today he graces the 100-franc note. The main road after Bissone is not always welcoming, especially at peak hours. So why not board the ship (with your bike) for a close-up experience of the lake as you sail to Melano? The next highlight: Capolago-Riva San Vitale, from where the rack railway ascends Monte Generoso (1,701 m.a.s.l.). This is where we finally say farewell to Lake Lugano. The first section of the onward journey through the Mendrisiotto follows the Laveggio river, 11 km long. Then comes a charming if hilly ride through Mendrisio, the region's capital. Elderly gentlemen chat excitedly here, and some play cards. The vine-clad slopes in Ticino's largest wine-growing area are impressive. Things are usually quiet at the "Dogana Ponte Faloppia" customs post, and the ride along the Faloppia stream is relaxing. It's not long before we reach the border town of Chiasso – the end of Switzerland and also the end of North-South Route no. 3.